The Battlefields of Belgium and France
Hello darling, this is the army |
The Battlefields of Belgium and France
Hello darling, this is the army |
You see, back in those days Serbia was friends with the West. But notice how the Bureaucrats ruin the Schlieffen Plan and instead of circling around Paris from the North the German armies move South too early and get bogged down. The town that we are now driving through bears a name familiar to most Canadians, I think. This is the town of Vimy.  Leaving freeways and back roads behind us we are transported to another time. A time when the young men of Europe were "dying in waves" on the fields of Belgium and France.  Here we see a similar road from during then First World War. You can see the tents of the encamped soldiers on the field beyond.  Which brings us to a place we've been before, haven't we? The Canadian war memorial at Vimy Ridge. Vimy Ridge 101"At 5.30 on the morning of April 9, 1917, Easter Monday, the creeping artillery barrage began to move steadily towards the Germans. Behind it advanced 20,000 soldiers of the first attacking wave of the four Canadian divisions, a score of battalions in line abreast, leading the assault in a driving north-west wind that swept the mangled countryside with sleet and snow. Guided by paint-marked stakes, the leading infantry companies crossed the devastation of No Man's Land, picking their way through shell-holes and shattered trenches. They were heavily laden. Each soldier carried at least 32 kilograms of equipment, plus, some say, a similar weight of the all-pervasive mud on uniform and equipment. This burden made climbing in and out of the numerous trenches and craters particularly difficult. "There was some hand-to-hand fighting, but the greatest resistance, and heavy Canadian losses, came from the strongly-emplaced machine-guns in the German intermediate line. Overcoming this resistance, three of the four divisions captured their part of the Ridge by midday, right on schedule. In the final stage, the 2nd Canadian Division was assisted by the British 13th Brigade, which fell under its command for the operation. "The 4th Canadian Division's principal objective was Hill 145, the highest and most important feature of the whole Ridge. Once taken, its summit would give the Canadians a commanding view of German rearward defences in the Douai Plain as well as those remaining on the Ridge itself. "Because of its importance, the Germans had fortified Hill 145 with well-wired trenches and a series of deep dug-outs beneath its rear slope. The brigades of the 4th Division were hampered by fire from the Pimple, the other prominent height, which inflicted costly losses on the advancing waves of infantry. Renewed attacks were mounted using troops that were originally scheduled to attack the Pimple. Finally, in the afternoon of April 10, a fresh assault by a relieving brigade cleared the summit of Hill 145 and thus placed the whole of Vimy Ridge in Canadian hands. Two days later, units of the 10th Canadian Brigade successfully stormed the Pimple. By that time, the enemy had accepted the loss of Vimy Ridge as permanent and had pulled back more than three kilometres. "Vimy Ridge marked the only significant success of the Allied spring offensive of 1917. But though they had won a great tactical victory, the Canadians were unable to exploit their success quickly with a breakthrough, mainly because their artillery had bogged down and was unable to move up with them through the muddy, shell-torn ground. Instead, some Canadian artillerymen took over captured German guns which they had earlier been trained to fire. "The Canadian achievement in capturing Vimy Ridge owed its success to sound and meticulous planning and thorough preparation, all of which was aimed at minimizing casualties. But it was the splendid fighting qualities and devotion to duty of Canadian officers and soldiers on the battlefield that were decisive. Most of them citizen-soldiers, they performed like professionals. "Though the victory at Vimy came swiftly, it did not come without cost. There were 3,598 dead out of 10,602 Canadian casualties. Battalions in the first waves of the assault suffered grievously. No level of casualties could ever be called "acceptable", but those at Vimy were lower than the terrible norm of many major assaults on the Western Front. They were also far lighter than those of any previous offensive at the Ridge. Earlier French, British and German struggles there had cost at least 200,000 casualties. Care in planning by the Corps Commander, Sir Julian Byng, and his right-hand man, Arthur Currie, kept Canadian casualties down. "The Canadian success at Vimy marked a profound turning-point for the Allies. A year-and-a-half later, the Great War was over. The Canadian record, crowned by the achievements at Vimy, won for Canada a separate signature on the Versailles Peace Treaty ending the War. Back home, the victory at Vimy, won by troops from every part of the country, helped unite many Canadians in pride at the courage of their citizen-soldiers, and established a feeling of real nationhood. "Brigadier-General Alexander Ross had commanded the 28th (North-West) Battalion at Vimy. Later, as president of the Canadian Legion, he proposed the first veterans' post-war, pilgrimage to the new Vimy Memorial in 1936. He said of the battle: " "It was Canada from the Atlantic to the Pacific on parade. I thought then ... that in those few minutes I witnessed the birth of a nation." " (www.vac-acc.gc.ca) In addition to this lengthy explanation of the battle you might also be interested in seeing a silent film that was put together by the Canadian government after the battle to show the folks back at home in movie theatres.  Much like at Point du Hoc the ground here at Vimy Ridge bears the scars of the heavy artillery barrage that preceded the battle.  Looming in the mist is the massive memorial that stands not only as a testament to those who fought at Vimy Ridge itself, but to all those Canadians who lost their lives during the First World War.  I think it's interesting to note that the stone used to build the memorial comes from what we now call the "former Yugoslavia", specifically the Dalmatian coast.  A view from the cenotaph to the mourning figure above symbolising Canada mourning her lost sons.  A picture of the mourning female figure taken way back when the memorial was first dedicated.  The mourning figure is looking down upon a faux sarcophagus draped in laurel branches.  The two main towers of the memorial represent Canada and France: "The two pylons represent Canada and France - two nations beset by war and united to fight for a common goal - peace and freedom for the Allied nations. To some, the pylons may seem like twin sentinels, silently guarding a peaceful world. Or they may be seen as a gateway to a better world where peace prevails." (www.vac-acc.gc.ca)  "On the outside of the monument's enclosing walls you will find the names of 11,285 Canadians who were killed in France and whose final resting places are unknown. The First World War battle honours of the regiments that fought at Vimy Ridge and dedicatory inscriptions are carved on the face of the pylons. "Altogether there were 19,660 Canadians who died during the First World War and who have no known grave. Some were posted as "missing or presumed dead"; others were buried at sea. Their names are inscribed on memorials in Canada and in Europe. "As you stand on the monument's wide stone terrace and look out over the broad fields and rolling hills of France, you can see other places where Canadians fought and died. More than 7,000 are buried in 30 war cemeteries within a 16-kilometre radius of this spot." (www.vac-acc.gc.ca)  This is the "Smith" section of the names on the memorial, as you can see.  "It is sometimes suggested that this land is part of Canada. This is not strictly correct. In 1922, the French Government granted "freely, and for all time, to the Government of Canada the free use of the land exempt from all taxes". Unlike an embassy, it is subject to the laws of France and the French police are responsible for law and order." (www.vac-acc.gc.ca)  I know what most people (and Freud) would say about the symbolism of these two towers of stone.  A view of the monument from the front. The mist is effective. It was a misty and cold day so long ago when the attack itself actually took place here at Vimy Ridge.  It is amazing how the landscape has evolved over the years. In the First World War this was a gigantic sea of mud.  Mud was a part of life in the World War One trenches.  The trees have grown back in many parts of these First World War battlefields, but during the war the artillery barrages and weather reduced many fields to rolling seas of mud.  As the symbol on the gate implies this is one of the Canadian cemeteries from the First World War. That does not mean, however, that only Canadians are buried here. In fact, there seems to be mostly Brits in this particular cemetery, as we shall see.  It was once the custom in these war cemeteries to keep a register to assist visitors in finding particular graves (see the little vault next to the gate). However, they seem to have suffered from theft of these registers and don't appear to keep them anymore.  Take a closer look at the first five gravestones in the first row. Each of these victims is unidentified and merely "Known unto God". Two of the unknowns, however, we identifiable as to which regiments them came from.  The middle grave is another unknown soldier whose regiment was identifiable, as was his rank of Lance Corporal.  At the right of this photo is a grim gravestone marking the location of burial for not one, but two unknown soldiers of the Great War. One can only imagine the condition of the bodies where not only the identity is unknown, but that would force the need for two soldiers to be buried together.  Some more unknown soldiers. When I first noticed this disturbing trend in World War One cemeteries I had to wonder if so-called Dog-Tags existed during the First World War. I was told that they did, but perhaps the extent to which the fighting men had them or wore them was less so than in later wars.  A view along the central expanse of lawn in the cemetery.  Take a closer look at the gravestone at the left: "A good-hearted lad who fought hard and well for King and Country".  Finally we see some Canadian soldiers in this cemetery. Check out the name of the one on the gravestone closest: E.G. Proudfoot. I choose to assume that the heritage of this young man was not European in nature. And yet here he lies on the battlefields of Europe. Very interesting.  The Grenadier Guards had an interesting logo, don't you think? A big Spy vs Spy bomb about to go off.  Here we see two "ANZAC" soldiers buried in the fields of Europe. I wasn't aware that any Australians or New Zealanders saw action in Europe (their contribution being in the battlefields of Turkey and the Gallipoli peninsula - which I know not because I've seen the Mel Gibson movie (I have NOT seen it) but because I've visited war memorials down there too).  A view across the cemetery at the rows of graves. As you can see it was not generally the practise in the First World War for the Allied graves to be marked permanently by crosses. I say "Allied" because, as we shall see later, the German graves are marked with crosses. This eliminates the need, I suppose, of having different markers for Jewish and Christian soldiers.  Here's a photo for Susan... a soldier from the West Yorkshire Regiment.  Look carefully at the writing at the top of these gravestones. Many soldiers did not have a proper burial and as you can see there are several who are "known" to be buried in the cemetery (front row) and several who are merely "believed" to be buried in this cemetery (back row).  Here we see two gravestones marking the final resting places each for Three Soldiers of the Great War. It is chilling to imagine the violent end that resulted in three bodies being so mangled as to not allow for separation even for burial. Some might try to see the positive side and imagine the three comrades who fought and died side by side being together for eternity. I myself, however, tend to think that (judging from any work environment) there is a pretty good chance that some of the people buried together probably didn't think much of each other in life, and maybe wouldn't be too happy about spending eternity next to the other person.  Here we have yet another unknown, but this one is a sailor and not a soldier. One wonders at what led to a sailor being killed hundreds of miles from the oceans, and under circumstances that led to his not being identifiable.  Hopping in the car again we drive a short distance down the road to another Canadian cemetery.  This smaller cemetery is known as the Canadian Cemetery Givency Road.  Check out this plaque left by students from Red Deer Alberta. I guess this Muldrew fellow was a local? Also notice that this is a FRENCH school in Red Deer. There are no French people in Alberta as such so this means that this must be a so-called French Immersion school. During my election campaigns I've had run-ins with the French Immersion schools due to the fact that when budgets are being slashed all around there comes a point where it's difficult to justify spending money on Francophone schools in otherwise completely Anglophone parts of Canada. I mean... if you have to cut band and music programs from schools to satisfy the shrinking budget it is tough to say "cut music, keep French". Sure music isn't exactly what you'd call a core subject, but in Alberta I promise you that French ain't a core subject either. And I am French Canadian, don't forget.  Danger! No Entry! Undetonated Explosives! And yet there are roads on the other side of the fence. Hmmmmmmm...  Take a look at this gigantic crater. My god that's huge!  Another more sensibly sized crater.  And so we arrive at the location of the trenchlines at Vimy Ridge. In the foreground you can see the restored trench's location marked with cement "sandbags". Snaking into the distance, however, you can still see the path of the original trenchline, now faded, rounded and overgrown with grass.  This is the location of the Canadian front line. It was from here that the attack on Vimy Ridge was launched.  An old gun port looks out across to the enemy lines.  Hey! Mistletoe! What's the deal with mistletoe anyway? Why is it up in trees like that?  Huge underground explosions were used to cut the barbed wire defences of the Germans just before the attack. These left enormous craters in the ground between the two lines of defence.  Which brings us to the German front lines.  Rusted implements and craters litter the landscape.  What remains of the German trenches. (Unrestored)  The sign in the distance is the Canadian front lines. Visitors are often amazed at how close they were from each other. Some lines were further apart than this, of course, but others were even closer - the opposing soldiers barely metres from each other. And bear in mind that these trench lines were, for the most part, static during the years of war - running from the English Channel to Switzerland.  Another view across "No Man's Land" toward the Canadian front lines.  Here we see some German soldiers emerging from their trenches and surrendering to the victorious Canadians at Vimy Ridge.  The craters from the underground detonations are immense.  The near crater is nicknamed "Winnipeg". The far crater is "Montreal". I always knew that Winnipeg was a hole, but Montreal always seemed ok to me. Imagine the Canadian troops emerging from their tunnels, artillery pounding ahead of them as they pour across these giant craters to engage the enemy. British War Reporter Philip Gibbs describes the scene in a report from the battlefield: The Battle of Vimy Ridge, 9-10 April 1917 "Today, at dawn, our armies began a great battle, which, if Fate has any kindness for the world, may be the beginning of the last great battles of the war. "Our troops attacked on a wide front between Lens and St. Quentin, including the Vimy Ridge, that great, grim hill which dominates the plain of Douai and the coalfields of Lens and the German positions around Arras. "In spite of bad fortune in weather at the beginning of the day, so bad that there was no visibility for the airmen, and our men had to struggle forward in a heavy rainstorm, the first attacks have been successful, and the enemy has lost much ground, falling back in retreat to strong rearguard lines, where he is now fighting desperately. "The line of our attack covers a front of some 12 miles southwards from Givenchy-en-Gohelle, and is a sledge-hammer blow, threatening to break the northern end of the Hindenburg line, already menaced round St. Quentin. "As soon as the enemy was forced to retreat from the country east of Bapaume and Peronne, in order to escape a decisive blow on that line, he hurried up divisions and guns northwards to counter our attack there, while he prepared a new line of defence, known as the Wotan line, as the southern part of the Hindenburg line, which joins it, is known as the Siegfried position, after two great heroes of old German mythology. "He hoped to escape there before our new attack was ready, but we have been too quick for him, and his own plans were frustrated. "So today began another titanic conflict which the world will hold its breath to watch because of all that hangs upon it. I have seen the fury of this beginning, and all the sky on fire with it, the most tragic and frightful sight that men have ever seen, with an infernal splendour beyond words to tell. The bombardment which went before the infantry assault lasted for several days, and reached a great height yesterday, when, coming from the south, I saw it for the first time. "Those of us who knew what would happen today, the beginning of another series of battles greater, perhaps, than the struggle of the Somme, found ourselves yesterday filled with a tense, restless emotion, and some of us smiled with a kind of tragic irony because it was Easter Sunday. "In the little villages behind the battle lines the bells of the French churches were ringing gladly because the Lord had risen, and on the altar steps the priests were reciting the splendid old words of faith. "Resurrexi et adhuc tecum sum. Alleluia" ("I have arisen and I am with thee always. Alleluia"). "The earth was glad yesterday. For the first time this year the sun had a touch of warmth in it, though patches of snow still stayed white under the shelter of the banks, and the sky was blue and the light glinted on wet tree-trunks and in the furrows of the new-ploughed earth. As I went up the road to the battle lines I passed a battalion of our men, the men who are fighting today, standing in hollow square with bowed heads while the chaplain conducted the Easter service. "Easter Sunday, but no truce of God. I went to a field outside Arras and looked into the ruins of the cathedral city. The cathedral itself stood clear in the sunlight, with a deep black shadow where its roof and aisles had been. Beyond was a ragged pinnacle of stone, once the glorious Town Hall, and the French barracks and all the broken streets going out to the Cambrai road. It was hell in Arras, though Easter Sunday. "The bombardment was now in full blast. It was a beautiful and devilish thing, and the beauty of it, and not the evil of it, put a spell upon one's senses. All our batteries, too many to count, were firing, and thousands of gun flashes were winking and blinking from hollows and hiding-places, and all their shells were rushing through the sky as though flocks of great birds were in flight, and all were bursting over the German positions with long flames which rent the darkness and waved sword-blades of quivering light along the ridges. "The earth opened, and great pools of red fire gushed out. Star shells burst magnificently, pouring down golden rain. Mines exploded east and west of Arras and in the wide sweep from Vimy Ridge to Blangy southwards, and voluminous clouds, all bright with a glory of infernal fire, rolled up to the sky. "The wind blew strongly across, beating back the noise of the guns, but the air was all filled with the deep roar and slamming knocks of the single heavies and the drum fire of the field guns. "The hour for attack was 5.30. Officers were looking at their wrist watches as on a day in July last year. The earth lightened. A few minutes before 5.30 the guns almost ceased fire, so that there was a strange and solemn hush. We waited, and pulses beat faster than the second hands. " "They're away," said a voice by my side. The bombardment broke out again with new and enormous effects of fire and sound. The enemy was shelling Arras heavily, and black shrapnel and high explosive came over from his lines, but our gunfire was twenty times as great. Around the whole sweep of his lines green lights rose. They were signals of distress, and his men were calling for help. "It was dawn now, but clouded and storm-swept. A few airmen came out with the wind tearing at their wings, but could see nothing in the mist and driving rain. I went down to the outer ramparts of Arras. The suburb of Blangy seemed already in our hands. On the higher ground beyond our men were fighting forward. I saw two waves of infantry advancing against the enemy's trenches, preceded by our barrage of field guns. "They went in a slow, leisurely way, not hurried, though the enemy's shrapnel was searching for them. "Grand fellows," said an officer lying next to me on the wet slope. "Oh, topping!" "Fifteen minutes afterwards groups of men came back. They were British wounded and German prisoners. I met the first of these walking wounded afterwards. They were met on the roadside by medical officers, who patched them up there and then before they were taken to the field hospitals in ambulances. "From these men, hit by shrapnel and machine-gun bullets, I heard the first news of progress. They were bloody and exhausted, but claimed success. "We did fine," said one of them. "We were through the fourth lines before I was knocked out." " "Not many Germans in the first trenches," said another, "and no real trenches either after shelling. We had knocked their dug-outs out, and their dead were lying thick, and the living ones put their hands up." All the men agreed that their own casualties were not high, and mostly wounded. "By three in the afternoon yesterday the Canadians had gained the whole of the ridge except a high strong post on the left, Hill 145, which was captured during the night. Our gunfire had helped them by breaking down all the wire, even round Heroes' Wood and Count's Wood, where it was very thick and strong. Thelus was wiped utterly off the map. "This morning Canadian patrols pushed in a snowstorm through the Farbus Wood, and established outposts on the railway embankment. Some of the bravest work was done by the forward observing officers, who climbed to the top of Vimy Ridge as soon as it was captured, and through a sea of heavy barrage reported back to the artillery all the movements seen by them on the country below. "In spite of the wild day, our flying men were riding the storm and signalling to the gunners who were rushing up their field guns. "Our 60-pounders," said a Canadian officer, "had the day of their lives." They found many targets. There were trains moving in Vimy village, and they hit them. There were troops massing on the sloping ground, and they were shattered. T here were guns and limbers on the move, and men and horses were killed. "Beyond all the prisoners taken yesterday by the English, Scottish and Canadian troops, the enemy losses were frightful, and the scenes behind his lines must have been and still be hideous in slaughter and terror. "The Battle of Arras is the greatest victory we have yet gained in this war and a staggering blow to the enemy. He has lost already nearly 10,000 prisoners and more than half a hundred guns, and in dead and wounded his losses are great. "He is in retreat south of the Vimy Ridge to defensive lines further back, and as he goes our guns are smashing him along the roads. It is a black day for the German armies and for the German women who do not know yet what it means to them. "During last night the Canadians gained the last point, called Hill 145, on the Vimy Ridge, where the Germans held out in a pocket with machine guns, and this morning the whole of that high ridge, which dominates the plains to Douai, is in our hands, so that there is removed from our path the great barrier for which the French and ourselves have fought through bloody years. "Yesterday, before daylight and afterwards, I saw this ridge of Vimy all on fire with the light of great gunfire. The enemy was there in strength, and his guns were answering ours with a heavy barrage of high explosives. "This morning the scene was changed as by a miracle. Snow was falling, blown gustily across the battlefields and powdering the capes and helmets of our men as they rode or marched forward to the front. But presently sunlight broke through the storm-clouds and flooded all the countryside by Neuville-St. Vaast and Thelus and La Folie Farm up to the crest of the ridge where the Canadians had just fought their way with such high valour. "Our batteries were firing from many hiding-places, revealed by the short, sharp flashes of light, but few answering shells came back, and the ridge itself, patched with snowdrifts, was as quiet as any hill of peace. "It was astounding to think that not a single German stayed up there out of all the thousands who had held it yesterday, unless some poor wounded devils still cower in the great tunnels which pierce the hillside." (www.firstworldwar.com)  A short distance from the memorial and cemeteries at Vimy Ridge, and scattered all across this region of Belgium and France, are many other cemeteries of soldiers who died in the First World War. The cemetery that we will no visit is special, however, because of the nationality of those who are buried here. This is the German Soldier's Cemetery at Neuville - St Vaast.  As with most such cemeteries this one also has a place for the Register of those interned here. But once again the Register is missing, with only a note to explain that due to theft the Register is no longer available.  Twenty four hours ago we were stunned by the sight of almost ten thousand dazzling white crosses in Normandy. That was a different war, of course, but I think in any war it's all too easy to forget that there are casualties on both sides, no matter how one might view those on the "other side". On this trip we've seen thousands upon thousands of graves. But until this moment every one of them was from Anglo-American forces who fought in both last century's World Wars. "Where are the German graves?" my travelling companion asked. I am reminded of a quote from the remarkable Bertrand Russell: "Patriots always talk of dying for their country and never of killing for their country." But kill they do. And here is a reminder that, right or wrong, it is young men on both sides of any war who do the dying. Another quote from Mr Russell also comes to mind in the face of this unbelievable expanse of graves: "War does not determine who is right - only who is left."  As mentioned earlier we can see that the markers for the German graves are crosses and not generic round markers. But of course it wasn't just Christians who died on the German side of things in the First World War either. It is perhaps a sad fact of history that the sight of Jewish markers alongside those of German soldiers should be something noteworthy. Also notice the various other Jewish markers in the distance.  Perhaps there is some comfort to be found in the fact that the wreath laid at the foot of this memorial to German soldiers comes from Canada - the same Canada that was responsible for the deaths of many here, and who was once the bitter enemy.  Each year German youth groups send young people to Belgium and France to maintain the grave markers and cemeteries. A sign informs us that youths from Bavaria visit this cemetery each year for that very purpose and I am told that this is a common experience for young German boys.  The extent of this cemetery is unbelievable, isn't it? Even in the American cemetery in Normandy the far edges of the cemetery were visible, if barely. Here is different. The distant boundaries of the cemetery are NOT visible. The graves seem to stretch on forever.  Notice that each cross in this picture bears TWO names, instead of just one. Add to this the fact that each cross represents not two graves but FOUR (there are two more names on the other side) and it the number of dead young men in this cemetery becomes absolutely, heartbreakingly, staggering. I try to do a mental calculation. If this cemetery is big as the one in Normandy (and if anything it is larger, not smaller) it must contain ten thousand markers. That multiplied by four renders FORTY THOUSAND graves or more. In actuality, as we shall discover as we leave, this cemetery contains almost 45.000 graves.  I try to put the extent of this place into perspective. I write and delete. Write and delete again. But cannot seem to find the words to say.  One of the markers has fresh flowers. It seems a long way to come to visit long distant relatives. These boys are far from home in both space and time.  It is also worth noting that German grave markers from either World War tend to be black whereas those of the Allies are white. What does that tell us, I wonder.  The plaque on the wall explains that 44,833 German soldiers are buried in this cemetery.  The map table shows the area around the Neuville St Vaast cemetery including the city of Arras and Vimy Ridge (Vimy Höhe). You can also see just how many cemeteries there are located in this small area of land (the plots marked by crosses).  A view of the entire map table tells us that 200.000 German and Allied soldiers lost their lives on the front lines of this area during the First World War.  Leaving the cemeteries behind us we continue along to the city of Arras and it's somewhat charming open squares encircled by tall gabled buildings  Of course "open square" in Europe means "parking lot" nowadays. But these squares weren't always automobile parking lots, of course.  I'm not sure why we came to Arras, exactly. To see this dog getting a haircut?  It's kind of a charming little French town, but French all the same. I'd rather be back in The Netherlands.  And so that is exactly what I shall do. Return to The Netherlands. Here we are at the border between Belgium and Holland. Tonight I shall sleep in my own bed and not dream dreams of death and graves but of more pleasant scenes and things. And with that the somewhat questionable adventures of Christmas 2004 come to an end. |
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